Grüner Veltliner

Grüner Veltliner is a white variety grown primarily in Austria and almost nowhere else. It does however also grow in a few Eastern European countries, such as Slovakia, Yugoslavia and the Czech Republic, but the variety is mostly associated with Austria, where it has been cultivated since Roman times. The steep, Rhine-like vineyards of the Danube west of Vienna produce very pure, minerally Grüner Veltliners intended for laying down. Down in the plains, citrus and peach flavours are more apparent, with spicy notes of pepper and sometimes tobacco. The better wines from top sites have lower yields and can be astonishingly complex, full of exotic tropical fruits, white pepper and lentils. They can also show aromas of green beans or asparagus, an engaging "vegetable" smell that is seldom "vegetal", especially when grown in mineral soil. In Austria it is still very much the tradition to drink the wine as young as possible, which is somewhat regrettable; and to drink them with food, which is absolutely correct. It has a reputation of being a particularly food-friendly wine. Grüner Veltliner is perhaps the single most versatile food wine in the world, often surpassing even Riesling because of its ability to pair with "difficult" foods.

I had a bottle from the Wachau region last night and it was sublime. My first encounter with this particular wine was when I had a head-to-head with a snobby sommelier in France some months ago. It was a bit of a ego battle and the sommelier was clearly not impressed with the wine knowledge of the "so-called" imposter from the south. It was a clear case of him feeling inadequate due to some questions I asked him on a particular matter... no surprise there... Champagne! Now for those who dont know it... sommeliers in France simply "will not be outplayed" on the field of Champagnes...but this sommelier in question came up short. So to redeem himself, he put in a "sucker punch" with his questions to de-rail my proverbial knowledge train. And this is where I stunned him with my reply to his question: What is the most difficult food-and wine pairing? Easy game (i said to myself): GV and asparagus!