Another journey
another dream without end
another memory
another discovery with friends.
We left early Monday morning, “première destination” being Burgundy - The dwelling of the world’s most renowned Pinot noir’s and Chardonnay’s, visiting the legendary vineyards of Romanee Conti, St. Romanee, La Tache, Richebourg and seeing Echezeaux in a distance. Walking between the vines of Romanee Conti felt like trampling on a holy grail - The silence and the appreciation going hand-in-hand. Furthermore seeing more of the famous Grand Crus of the region and getting to taste some of them was a dream come true. To name all the appellations and “clos” that we tasted and visited would take forever seeing that Burgundy is a mosaic of small vineyards all divided into “who-knows-what”.
Not for anyone to understand I am convinced, but not the less I feel like I got closer to understanding this bizarre, yet unmatched piece of heaven-on-earth (well, from a wine perspective at least!). We were treated with underground visits in Beaune (the mystical city that is the capital of the region); treating soil and earth in some other “saintly” parcels of land such as Clos St Jacques and tasting the sweet nectar from villages such as St Denis, St Georges and St Aubin (who so ever they might have been). Although we were squeezed for time and a schedule being nothing less that jam packed, we tasted nothing but the best of Burgundy, my favourite being the Echezeaux Grand Cru 2006 from Domaine Henri Naudin-Ferrand. I think we tasted everything from the Macon up to the northern tip of the Cote d’Or. Pinot noir being my favourite cultivar, this was like bathing with the gods.
Next stop – Champagne – or better known to some (from lovers to connoisseurs) as the centre of the universe. I am one of those! (Funny how you can’t get enough of a good thing) We were hosted by Moet & Chandon the first morning. We were taken through the famous vineyards of the Cote de Blancs to the south of Epernay with the shadow of Chateau de Saran (their VIP mansion for those privileged enough to be rubbing shoulders with the “crème de la crème”) hanging over our shoulder. Thereafter we did make it into one of their other top establishments; being received from lunch in there head quarters in Avenue de Champagne, Epernay.
Furthermore we were treated like gold the next day at Champagne Duval-Leroy in Vertus, a small village in the southern corner of the Cote de Blancs. They hosted a base-wine tasting unmatchable by any other and we compared different base wines from appellations such as Mesnil, Avize, Vertus (all being Chardonnay), plus Bouzy and Ambonnay (the latter two being Pinots). Not to forget the lunch that they presented us and the accompanying bubbles of several vintages dressing our tables. But the best part of this visit was strolling up the hill above Vertus only to be greeted by a glass of chilled bubbly. Standing their in the vineyards, bubbly in hand, looking out over the Cote de Blancs – it just felt right. Trying to describe the feeling I registered while standing there would do injustice to the experience.
The journey reached its “crescendo” that evening with our final destination being the aristocratic “Maison” of Bollinger in Ay - The bubbles preferred by the English royal family and the legendary 007. The visit took us to the parcel of “lost vines” behind the “Maison” known as the “Vieilles Vignes Francaises”. These vines date back to the pre-phylloxeric era, meaning they are around about 150 years old! Just standing there felt “wrong”; like being in a museum of something that should be dead, but that is still alive. The rest of the visit was like what I imagine it would feel like walking through Buckingham Palace or drinking tea in the oval office? I was pinching myself from time to time to remind myself where I was. This definitely being a highlight of my career and seeing the well-known barrel cellar, the cooperage, and the kilometres of underground cellars snaking under the village of Ay, I was lost for words. True perfection – but it was not over yet…
…for the final night of our Voyage d’Etude was crowned with a get together (at Bollinger) with some SupAgro Alumni from years gone by that are now working in and around Champagne. The evening started (and continued) of with a bang and we drunk no fewer than 70-80 bottles of Champagne’s finest bubbles. This includes vintage and non-vintage bubblies from Moet & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, Ruinart, Taittinger and Bollinger. The best Champagne of the night by far however, was the 8 magnums of Bollinger Grande Annee 1988 that made their way to our tables, our glasses, our stomachs and forever our imaginations.
Apart from the unforgettable experiences we had with the people of Burgundy and Champagne; the endless vineyards and cellars we visited; plus the wines and Champagnes we tasted - everything falls short in comparison with the friendship and camaraderie of the SupAgro Viti-Oeno class of 2008/2009. For me it has been an endless experience – the last year in France with these friends of mine. And to finish my journey in France on such a note is nothing less than fitting.
Je suis un VO!
another dream without end
another memory
another discovery with friends.
We left early Monday morning, “première destination” being Burgundy - The dwelling of the world’s most renowned Pinot noir’s and Chardonnay’s, visiting the legendary vineyards of Romanee Conti, St. Romanee, La Tache, Richebourg and seeing Echezeaux in a distance. Walking between the vines of Romanee Conti felt like trampling on a holy grail - The silence and the appreciation going hand-in-hand. Furthermore seeing more of the famous Grand Crus of the region and getting to taste some of them was a dream come true. To name all the appellations and “clos” that we tasted and visited would take forever seeing that Burgundy is a mosaic of small vineyards all divided into “who-knows-what”.
Not for anyone to understand I am convinced, but not the less I feel like I got closer to understanding this bizarre, yet unmatched piece of heaven-on-earth (well, from a wine perspective at least!). We were treated with underground visits in Beaune (the mystical city that is the capital of the region); treating soil and earth in some other “saintly” parcels of land such as Clos St Jacques and tasting the sweet nectar from villages such as St Denis, St Georges and St Aubin (who so ever they might have been). Although we were squeezed for time and a schedule being nothing less that jam packed, we tasted nothing but the best of Burgundy, my favourite being the Echezeaux Grand Cru 2006 from Domaine Henri Naudin-Ferrand. I think we tasted everything from the Macon up to the northern tip of the Cote d’Or. Pinot noir being my favourite cultivar, this was like bathing with the gods.
Next stop – Champagne – or better known to some (from lovers to connoisseurs) as the centre of the universe. I am one of those! (Funny how you can’t get enough of a good thing) We were hosted by Moet & Chandon the first morning. We were taken through the famous vineyards of the Cote de Blancs to the south of Epernay with the shadow of Chateau de Saran (their VIP mansion for those privileged enough to be rubbing shoulders with the “crème de la crème”) hanging over our shoulder. Thereafter we did make it into one of their other top establishments; being received from lunch in there head quarters in Avenue de Champagne, Epernay.
Furthermore we were treated like gold the next day at Champagne Duval-Leroy in Vertus, a small village in the southern corner of the Cote de Blancs. They hosted a base-wine tasting unmatchable by any other and we compared different base wines from appellations such as Mesnil, Avize, Vertus (all being Chardonnay), plus Bouzy and Ambonnay (the latter two being Pinots). Not to forget the lunch that they presented us and the accompanying bubbles of several vintages dressing our tables. But the best part of this visit was strolling up the hill above Vertus only to be greeted by a glass of chilled bubbly. Standing their in the vineyards, bubbly in hand, looking out over the Cote de Blancs – it just felt right. Trying to describe the feeling I registered while standing there would do injustice to the experience.
The journey reached its “crescendo” that evening with our final destination being the aristocratic “Maison” of Bollinger in Ay - The bubbles preferred by the English royal family and the legendary 007. The visit took us to the parcel of “lost vines” behind the “Maison” known as the “Vieilles Vignes Francaises”. These vines date back to the pre-phylloxeric era, meaning they are around about 150 years old! Just standing there felt “wrong”; like being in a museum of something that should be dead, but that is still alive. The rest of the visit was like what I imagine it would feel like walking through Buckingham Palace or drinking tea in the oval office? I was pinching myself from time to time to remind myself where I was. This definitely being a highlight of my career and seeing the well-known barrel cellar, the cooperage, and the kilometres of underground cellars snaking under the village of Ay, I was lost for words. True perfection – but it was not over yet…
…for the final night of our Voyage d’Etude was crowned with a get together (at Bollinger) with some SupAgro Alumni from years gone by that are now working in and around Champagne. The evening started (and continued) of with a bang and we drunk no fewer than 70-80 bottles of Champagne’s finest bubbles. This includes vintage and non-vintage bubblies from Moet & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, Ruinart, Taittinger and Bollinger. The best Champagne of the night by far however, was the 8 magnums of Bollinger Grande Annee 1988 that made their way to our tables, our glasses, our stomachs and forever our imaginations.
Apart from the unforgettable experiences we had with the people of Burgundy and Champagne; the endless vineyards and cellars we visited; plus the wines and Champagnes we tasted - everything falls short in comparison with the friendship and camaraderie of the SupAgro Viti-Oeno class of 2008/2009. For me it has been an endless experience – the last year in France with these friends of mine. And to finish my journey in France on such a note is nothing less than fitting.
Je suis un VO!
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