Monday, March 9, 2009

Don't get sentimental


The oldest wine I have ever drunk (not only tasted - but we actually finished the bottle) was a 1928 vintage. It was a Cabernet franc from the small appellation in the Loire Valley called St-Nicholas de Bourgueil. And the wine was in perfect condition. Obviously it has lost some colour over the last 80 years, but the structure and the freshness of the wine was astonishing. We were invited to a private underground “treasury” of wine. Uncle Scredge McDuck would have been proud of the value of the odd 20 000 bottles hidden safely under 30 meters of clay and tufa soils.
The story came to mind as I was putting the Magnum 1991 from Champagne Jean Vesselle in the fridge to share with friends on my recent birthday. And it dawned on me that one should not be or become sentimental about wine. Why do I say this?
I am a winemaker and I believe that wine is made to be enjoyed. That is the most important thing. For me the greatest joy is when somebody enjoys my wine. I am not interested in somebody being able to tell me the cultivars or vinification techniques. I want to see the pleasure and delight that my day’s work provides to thirsty souls.
I am not saying, don’t age your wines. I am just saying don’t pass over a wine in the cellar when you feel like drinking it but the sentimental guilt keeps you from pulling the cork and you leave with thoughts of – next time! Don’t miss out on the perfect wine for the perfect moment. Trust your gut instinct.
I have heard too many stories of people cellaring old vintages – apparently saving it for that special occasion. But according to me it is the wine, the food, the music and the people that make it all special. The occasion is not going to change the wine. But the wine will definitely change the occasion. Wine is about conviviality; sharing moments with friends and celebrating life.

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